Rafter vents are crucial for a healthy roof and attic because, without them, the insulation of your home needs will block out the roof vents and increase moisture buildup in the winter and heat accumulation in the summer. If you go for blown insulation installation in Toronto, ensure that it does not block the soffits by using additional blockers. Properly built, a vented attic requires continuous air and thermal control layers at the top-floor ceiling with soffit-to-ridge or gable-to-gable venting. The most moisture-forgiving attic-roof assembly is a vented attic. Staple them directly to the roof decking, and as soon as they are securely in place, place blankets or batts to act as insulation or blow cellulose right to the edge of your attic floor. There is quite a bit of drying potential for the entire space and assembly. They also come in varying sizes four-foot lengths and 14.5 and 22.5-inch widths for different spaces. You will need a flashlight, staple gun, and your rafter vents. Rafter vents should be placed in your attic ceiling where the ceiling meets the attic floor. Divide the figure by two to determine the number of vents you will need. You can calculate this yourself by measuring the area of your home by multiplying the length and width of your house in feet then dividing the area by 150 to get the event space square footage. Owens Corning Raft-R-Mate Attic Rafter Vents: Assist in the constant flow of fresh air from soffit vent to the ridge by preventing blockage of the airway at the soffit. The first step is to determine how many vents you need. Raft-R-Mate Attic Rafter Vents create a space between each rafter for air to flow freely up the rafters and into the attic. Without free movement of air, moisture that gets trapped inside the attic and mould and mildew will begin to develop. Fresh air should be able to enter your home and stale air to exit. Rafter vents ensure that the soffit vents remain clear of insulation material so that outside air has a way in through the attic via the soffits and out through the ridge vent. Complete coverage is essential to ensure that you get quality coverage and insulation, which means value for your money. You never want the air to hit a "dead-end".Rafter vents also called baffles, are fittings that you add to the attic to ensure you completely cover your attic floor with insulation. Just cut a small hole/slit t allow the air to continue to the top. Here is a picture how to vent the hips where the rafters terminate on the hip rafter. Typically the AIR below the foil inside the attic will be less than 10 degrees hotter than the outside (ambient) temperature. Since this is not your case, you would have to crawl (or have. New homes makes it easy since you do it before hanging the drywall up. Unfortunately for you there are only 3 ways i know of to install baffles to ensure attic insulation does not block soffit intake airflow. Kinda like parking a car in the shade, it does not really help to crack the windows. Post re-roof rafter baffles installation. Finally, one thing to remember is that once you install a radiant barrier, whatever ventilation you have is usually enough. The air will seek a way out even if it's a little below. Hot air will rise to the top of the attic and "pool". You want to leave the gap at the top even if you DON"T have ridge vents. Basically, if their is a hole in the roof, you want a corresponding hole in the foil. you will cut a hole in the foil directly below the hole. AND, if there are any other vents: wind turbines, static vents, electric fans etc. You will leave gaps at the tops and bottoms of each rafter bay. You want air to flow freely through the attic - really as though the foil is not even there. One has ridge vent and one has static (or can vents as you call them). You are actually seeing two different attics. Here is recent video we did explaining the Winter benefit: How Radiant Barrier Helps In Cold Or Mixed Climates From what we have seen the benefit from reducing heat loss is equal or greater than the heat gain from the sun in the winter. Or, air movement from cold, dense air falling through the insulation which reduces it's R-Value. Installing a radiant barrier on top of your insulation will reduce heat loss in the Winter AND reduce what is called "convective looping" in the insulation. This cold air "sucks" the heat out and although the shingles may get pretty warm, not much heat actually transfers via radiation into the insulation in the winter. Third, a ventilated roof is designed to move cold air below the roof deck to keep it cold to minimize ice damming. Second, the sun is low in the Southern sky so the actual amount of radiant heat gain is much less than in the Summer. First, the days are short, so you don't get as much sun time. Sun exposure will help some to reduce the heat loss. So in the winter, heat is leaving the home.
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